SHADES of ... GRIS? Tim Stevens

It's tempting to simplify our world of wine by focusing on a few well-known grape varieties with the thought that wines from a given variety will all taste pretty much the same, regardless of the source.  The limits of this approach become apparent when considering the somewhat obscure variety called Pinot Gris (gris is French for gray).  Wines made from Pinot Gris vary considerably based on the country from which it is produced.

The likely parent grape of Pinot Gris (a white wine grape) is Pinot Noir.  From Burgundy, where it is virtually nonexistent, it has traveled north to Alsace, east to nearby Germany, south to Italy, and west to new world sites in the U.S. and New Zealand.

In Alsace, Pinot Gris (sometimes called Tokay Pinot Gris) is developed into mostly dry wines that are rich, complex and succulent.  It enjoys the lofty status of being one of three noble grape varieties (along with Gewurztraminer and Riesling).  Pinot Gris from Alsace are full-bodied, and can make a nice alternative to big expensive white Burgundies.

Italian winemakers make an entirely different style of wine from Pinot Gris, where it is called Pinot Grigio. They produce wines that are crisp, light and dry.  To achieve desired acidity, Italian winemakers often pick Pinot Grigio grapes before they are fully ripe, resulting in its characteristic lightness and pale color.  It pairs well with fresh, briny, sea scented oysters that are light and zesty, because Pinot Grigio has the same weight and light texture as the oyster.   Pinot Grigio in Italy is produced mostly in the northeast, particularly Friuli, Venezia, and Alto Adige.

In Germany, Pinot Gris goes by two names: Ruländer - big and unctuous - and Grauburgunder -dry - although these are only generalizations.

In the U.S., Pinot Gris has emerged with great success in Oregon.  The style of Oregon Pinot Gris is somewhere between that of Alsace and Italy - crisp while achieving a full mouth feel.  Oregon Pinot Gris is the perfect match for grilled salmon.

Pinot Gris is not toasty or creamy like Chardonnay, nor flinty like Chablis.  It's not herbal like Sauvignon Blanc, and not fat like Viognier.  Neither is it sweet or tart like Riesling, and it's not spicy like Gewurztraminer or Muscat.  It's not expensive.  It's not black or white….. it's gris!