Do the letters INAO mean anything to you?  Little did Mike Feeney and I know that our two-week tour of France with Bobby Kacher would let us know the meaning of INAO up close and personal.  Yes, we had listened to Bobby tell us at the beginning of the trip that he intended for us to learn about wines he imports through experiencing French culture.  What he meant by this was revealed in numerous conversations with the owners and winemakers of his French estates, through tasting barrel samples in their cellars and by enjoying local cuisine often served on their premises.

For me, the highlight of this learning experience came midway through the trip.   We were concluding a tasting at Domaine Thibert just outside the small village of Fuissé in the Macon section of Burgundy, when Bobby introduced René Renou, the head of INAO. Those of you who have taken basic wine appreciation courses, or have read on your own about the wines of France, will know that these letters stand for Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, and that this is the French governmental organization that establishes the strict guidelines for wines that may be included in the classification system called Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée.  The INAO is the guardian of the heart and soul of the French wine industry.

René Renou was not there for a cameo appearance and applause.  That quickly became apparent when Bobby and René voiced a vigorous (but polite) disagreement on whether some aspects of INAO laws inappropriately limit the skills of winemakers.  Even more so, René said he would stay and talk to us.  This was an opportunity not to be lost!  I quickly approached him and asked him to explain his perspective on the intent of the INAO.  His answer was surprisingly candid, and brought to mind many concepts I learned in economics courses taken years ago.

As expected, René started by explaining that the purpose of the INAO is to preserve the style of wines made in specific localities.  It does this by defining exact geographic boundaries, permissible grape varieties, vitacultural practices, etc.  French wine labels emphasize local names, and de-emphasize the producer and names of grapes.  The theory is that wines reflect a place much more than a producer.  René was quick to explain that following the new world practice of emphasizing grape varieties in naming French wines would undermine their wine industry.  The supply, for example, of Gevrey-Chambertin is limited by design (i.e. INAO laws), thereby inducing higher market prices for those wines.  Simply putting pinot noir on the label would risk making it indistinguishable from any other pinot noir, and lead to lower prices.  Higher prices, René explained, are key to enabling French winemakers to continue making wines in the traditional and unique style of specific localities.

We also learned that René is more than just an engaging and intellectual administrator of the INAO.  He is also owner of Bonnezeau, a Loire Valley estate that produces delicious high quality dessert-style wines, which every serious student of wine should try.  Bobby's commitment to our having a "French experience" was especially evident by having René Renou join us for an evening.